Set-Up 2017-03-07T00:51:58+00:00

Installation

When you purchase The Engine Heater  the quick disconnects and dust caps (everything you need) comes with it.

The best way, (and the most economical way) to hook-up the heater is to use the supplied quick disconnects by removing the freeze plugs (drain plugs) for each side of your engine block (of a V8).

Most engines already have these screw-in plugs in the block. Some cast iron blocks have pressed in plugs that you could pop out and tap, or you could drill & tap a 3/8″ pipe thread. If your tapped hole is not 3/8 NPT you will have to get an adapter to reduce to 3/8 NPT.

The male nipple is installed in your block, available in aluminum,  (with a dust cover),  and the female coupler is on the hose.

Hose routed to remote bracket

Quick disconnect in block

Any V8 can be hooked up directly into the block by removing the fitting that the water line from the water pump to each side of the block & replacing it with a AN-8 Tee then an AN-8 180 & an AN-8 hose end (or adapter) to fit the existing hose. From that run AN-8 hose to a remote bracket mounted on the front motor mount.

Easy to get to & it stays on the engine when you change engines in a hurry.

If your block doesn’t have the screw-in freeze plugs, don’t panic, the heater can also be hooked up with a one way check valve that installs in your lower radiator hose (so you don’t have to tap holes in your block).

 

Aluminium double butterfly lower radiator valves are available in 1 1/2″ (for sprint cars & midgets) and 1 3/4″ (late models). Quick disconnect nipples mount (with dust caps) to valve and is the most popular method for hooking up heater to your car.

 

Radiator hose valves are available for 1″ (25 mm) hose, AN-12 (3/4″ hose) or AN-16 (1″ hose) for mini sprints or even for a Monster truck.

 

This is the remote bracket hook up presently used by our race team (which we really like) This set-up will work with hose’s routed to the tapped holes in the block (what we have) or to a lower radiator valve. Alum bracket mounts on front motor mount & 3/8 NPT x AN-8 adapter fittings to block or radiator valve.

 

Just use your imagination – If you come up with a better (or cheaper) idea to hook up your heater, call or e-mail us, we’re always open for suggestions and looking to save you money.

The Engine Heater will heat up your engine from dead cold, It will heat up a midget in about 30-45 minutes and about twice that long for a sprint car (twice the metal to heat up). But it’s at it’s best maintaining the heat in the engine after slow warm ups or hot laps. When you go out on the track to race whether it’s qualifying, the heat, the dash, or the feature, your engine is screaming for mercy the first few laps because it’s not warmed up yet.

Engine builders claim your engine gains 1 HP for each degree of heat. So… You can calculate 120 degrees to 180 degrees — 60 HP difference.

The heater comes to you full of water, with an additive “Water Wetter” which is recommended for your cooling system as it will not only protect your water pump seal on your car but will also lube the water pump seal (and the quick disconnect fittings) in your heater. Water Wetter also has other benefits like reducing rust, corrosion and electrrolysis…Besides making your engine run cooler.

Just as your engine is always full of water, so there’s no air bubbles blown in your engine. When you disconnect the hoses the heater stays full and your engine stays full. Any air bubbles end up in the top of your radiator and your radiator cap is the safety valve should for some reason the water would get too hot.

The Engine Heater comes with a 2,000 watt element but in some cases we recommend a 1,500 watt element. (Like for a mini sprint, or if your generator is rated at under 5,000 watts and it’s also running trailer lights, air compressor, grooving iron, etc. The 1,500w will take just a little longer to heat up from “cold” but will maintain Temp the same as the 2,000w. Always use at least a 12 ga extension cord preferably not over 25 ft long.

The “Down Under” heater is 240v 50hz with a 2,500 watt heating element and accepts a local extension cord.

Every heater is tested before shipping for leaks, pump, and heater operation, so you can be assured your heater will perform properly when you get to the track.

The Engine Heater (including the “down under” heater) comes with a remote adjustable thermostat and an industrial pressure gauge, that will show pressure in your system, and will heat your engine up to 195 degrees without fear of boiling the water. (Just set it & forget it).

Don’t be fooled, some heaters will trick you into thinking your engine is heated up faster but it’s just the water that’s hot (not all that metal). Feel your head, or your header, to see if your engines hot.

Your engine will thank you.